Visit a Sparkling Jewel: Baylor’s Armstrong Browning Library and Museum
By Tonya Warren | Photos courtesy of Baylor University’s Armstrong Browning Library and Museum
Make the short drive to Waco and discover a sparkling jewel in the middle of busy campus life. Surrounded by stately live oak and towering magnolia trees, this magnificent library and museum recently celebrated its 70th anniversary. Forget about an image of a library being filled with shelves of dusty books monitored by persnickety librarians. Instead, visitors will find a completely different experience when they pass through the front impressive solid brass doors, each one weighing almost a ton. Library and museum director, Jennifer Borderud, admits first-timers can be skeptical about spending time in a library.
“They end up loving it!” Borderud says. “Many of them say it’s their favorite stop in Waco.”
Nineteenth century Victorian poets and husband-wife duo Robert and Elizabeth Barrett Browning were highly esteemed by Dr. A.J. Armstrong, who served as Baylor’s chairman of the English department from 1912-1952. He taught classes on Robert Browning and had a vast collection of their poems and other items. Armstrong envisioned a lovely space Browning admirers worldwide could visit, study, research, and enjoy viewing collected items. While then-Baylor president Pat Neff provided startup money to begin construction, Armstrong was charged with raising the funds for the remaining amount. He and wife, Mary, were successful in their venture; a challenging task during the Great Depression and into World War II.
More than 27,000 books and 10,000 manuscripts are housed here. This library is a non-circulating library, meaning books may not be checked out. However, papers and other items may be checked out to be studied in a special designated room on-site. One of Borderud’s responsibilities is to acquire objects, through auction house bidding, to enlarge the Browning collection. The library owns about one-third of the books from the Brownings’ personal library. Recently, one of Dr. Armstrong’s great-grandson reached out to Baylor to donate a box of papers containing correspondence between Armstrong and Robert Frost and Carl Sandburg. Materials in the collection are unique and difficult to replace, thus they are kept in secure, climate and temperature-controlled cases to ensure longevity.
Away from downtown crowds and cupcakes, an outing to the library and museum allows time for quiet reflection. Visitors are greeted on the terrace by a bronze sculpture of Pippa, a young and carefree girl who is the subject of Robert’s poem, Pippa Passes. Inside the foyer, visitors will notice a motif of bells and pomegranates, a reference to Exodus 39 which describes the high priest’s robe as being decorated with these items. This theme also is found along the edge of the bronze doors and in the gold leaf frame of Robert’s portrait on the first floor. The Browning family marble busts are on display, including one of Pen, their only child.
Sixty-two beautifully crafted stained-glass windows are located throughout the building, most depicting scenes from the Brownings’ poetry. Thought to be the world’s largest collection of secular stained-glass windows, Borderud says, “It’s interesting because although the windows aren’t particularly religious themed, visitors will point out spiritual imagery meaningful for them.”
The McLean Foyer of Meditation is a must-see. This room is a 40-foot cube with a five-foot recessed dome covered in 23-carat gold leaf. The lush, velvety appearance of the dome was created by workmen pressing gold leaf into the plaster with their thumbs, giving the area a fabric-like appearance. In reality, the appearance is from thousands of thumbprints. The bronze two-ton chandelier continues the bells and pomegranates motif, and a richly illustrated hand-painted Italian garden scene is visible above the paneling. Italian influences are found throughout the library as the poets enjoyed years living in Italy. Specifically shaded stained-glass windows in this room create a sunrise or sunset effect, depending on outside weather. Dr. Armstrong envisioned this area worth its expense, saying, “if we could give the world another Dante, another Shakespeare, another Browning, we shall count the cost a bargain.”
Romanticism abounds in the Foyer’s alcove. Elizabeth’s world famous 43rd sonnet from Sonnets from the Portuguese is printed on the right wall in gold leaf. The beloved poem begins with “How do I love you? Let me count the ways.” On the opposite wall, also printed in gold leaf, is Robert’s work from The Ring and the Book, beginning with “O Lyric Love, Half-angel, Half-bird.” Atop a marble column in the alcove is a bronze sculpture of the couple’s clasped hands. It’s no wonder many marriage proposals take place in this lovely area. The foyer is popular for weddings, musical events, and lectures due to its’ exquisite beauty and outstanding acoustics.
Continue touring the museum to admire pieces of rich, walnut furniture owned by the Brownings, as well as a signet ring worn by Robert for 40 years. Also on display is a black onyx cross necklace Robert gave Elizabeth on their honeymoon. Various other household items are on display as well as drawings and paintings by Pen. Don’t miss Robert’s illustrations of The Pied Piper of Hamelin. Regarding a writing desk belonging to Elizabeth, Borderud says, “I like to think she wrote love letters to Robert on that desk.”
Be sure to visit the gift gallery and pickup a memento for that special someone. Also, enjoy a large collection of Wedgewood china and various German ceramics. Connections of these items to the Brownings are explained in their respective areas.
End your tour by exploring the Garden of Contentment. Well-maintained, century-old oak trees tower over plantings such as Giant Ligularia, Japanese Yew, Asian Jasmine, and others. A fountain, crushed granite pathways, teak benches, and other outdoor furnishings beckon visitors to slow down and enjoy peace and tranquility offered in this beautiful outdoor space.
IF YOU GO
Self-guided tours are available. Call ahead to schedule group tours.
710 Speight Ave, Waco, TX 76706
Phone: 254-710-3352
Online: baylor.edu/browning library
