Honoring heritage is key ingredient at Cake by the Lake
By TONYA WARREN | Photos by BRANDY CRUZ
According to the Visit Montana website, the tiny town of Colstrip boasts a population of about 2,000 residents in the flat terrain of the state where coal mining and later, power plants, put the town on the map in the early 20th century. Understandably, sometimes locals move away for better opportunities. Had it not been for the forward-thinking parents of a young Native American girl named Athena Ellis, she might still live in the shadows of that hardscrabble Montana town with long and unforgiving winters.
Soft spoken with a sparkle in her eyes, Athena, who is of Northern Cheyenne descent, said, “My father moved us off the reservation because of social economic constraints.”
She described the poverty rate as very high, punctuated with drug and alcohol abuse, and the normalization of intergenerational poverty. Her mother encouraged Athena to excel at whatever occupation she chose, and the young girl saw firsthand how a good education can benefit someone, after her father attended college and secured a better job at the coal mine.
While growing up, Athena enjoyed baking beside her mother in the kitchen, and her mom generously sprinkled complimentary comments as they measured, rolled and cut. She told Athena that she should consider becoming a pastry chef someday, as her products always came out perfect. Her mom should know, as Athena described her as their town’s go-to cake decorator. Measuring, baking, frosting and decorating would often cause her mom to work until wee hours in the morning. Although she admired her mom’s hard work, she knew she didn’t want to work herself to exhaustion.
After moving to Texas as an adult, Athena worked various jobs, but none she was passionate about. Her lucky baking break came when a co-worker asked her to bake a cake for a banquet the department was hosting. After seeing the lovely hand crafted three-tiered cake, another employee requested a cake for a pirate party he was hosting. Word of mouth got around about Athena’s tasty cakes, and orders began to pour in. After opening her own bakery, she has found that the orders still pour in, so she is careful about balancing job demands with important personal time. She credits her understanding and incredibly capable employees for taking the lead when she needs a break.
Before opening Cake by the Lake & Bakery in 2021, she enrolled at the Texas State Technical College and attended culinary school. Although she already knew how to bake and decorate, she was determined to perfect her baking and decorating skills.
“Culinary school helped me hone my skills,” Athena said. “Everything at my shop has to be top notch, and the standard is high because of my culinary background.”
Returning to Montana to be a professional baker was never an option for Athena. She said acquiring funding is difficult to come by, and it’s expected one will return and plant a business on the Native American reservation.
“I built this business with my own resources,” she said proudly.
It’s hard to be a Native American entrepreneur, she continued. In addition to difficulty securing startup funds, mentors are hard to find, and there’s not a lot of encouragement. Knowing how tough it is for a Native American entrepreneur, she said she’d love to help other Native American women open businesses, as opportunities present themselves. According to the National Association of Women Business Owners, in 2019, Native American women owned over 220,000 businesses or only about 3% of all female-owned businesses.
In addition to attending workshops, keeping up with the latest baking trends and listening to customers, Athena offers a wide variety of delicious homemade baked goods to please the most finicky sweet tooth.
From Superman cakes, to Hogwarts cakes, to the classic buttercream cake for grandma’s 90th birthday, the shop is brimming with something for everyone. Pies and cakes, both whole and by the slice, are available daily. Cupcakes, cookie cakes and banana bread, as well as pudding cups, cookies and other treats are also worth a visit. You might score points with the boss by bringing in a box of croissants, Danish and crème puffs. Scoop up some scones, meat and fruit kolaches or a warm cinnamon roll. Seasonal favorites are always a hit. Is it ever too early to crave savory pumpkin bread?
Athena says she’s broken a barrier or stigma for Native Americans, as many of them struggle with doing bigger things with their lives. “I still can’t believe I own my own business.” she said. “It’s like living a dream.”
For Belton and beyond, Athena’s offerings are themselves a dream come true.
Cake by the Lake & Bakery
Address: 11720 W. Adams Ave., Suite E, Belton
Phone: 254-228-1008
Website: cakebythelakebelton.com
Social: facebook.com/templebeltonbakery
